Mark and I arrived in town about 12:00 AM on July 3rd, most of the town asleep and quiet. There were two characters leaving a saloon – Chilkoot Charlie’s it’s name. They staggered to and fro, made nonsensical remarks that only a person filled with Alaska-Yukon brew could understand, and laughed without reason. They started the celebration a little early. We laughed and headed down the road.
The backpacks we carried were heavy, our bodies tired, and minds exhausted. We walked down the dirt road through town looking for a place to settle. From behind we heard our blasted friends howling... talking... with quiet laughter developing into another howl. Mark and I stopped and looked. One man, 220 pounds solid, had a flush face with a smile large enough for two, which filled the air with steam as his warm breath met the cool evening air. The other had an average 5 foot 10 inch build. Beer cans in hand, they staggered toward us, the larger one speaking.
"You two fellows just get in?"
"Yes we did." I replied. "We’re looking for a place to stay. Maybe you could help us out."
"Sure. Looks like you’re carrying a heavy load. My brother in-law will be happy to carry a pack. Hell… I’ll carry one too!"
"Sounds good! They’re pretty heavy but they’re what we live out of. We’ve been traveling throughout Alaska and the Yukon. My name’s Dave and this is my friend Mark."
Mark was 5 foot 10 inches, 135 pounds – Not the kind of guy to be carrying a 75-pound backpack. We let these guys carry our packs and they introduced themselves.
"My name is Dan and this is my brother in-law George. Don’t mind him… he’s been drinking", he said with a grin.
The weight of our packs made our half sober friends stagger worse. The alcohol kept them from complaining about the weight. We walked and they told us of the celebration the next day. It sounded great! As we neared their homes, they gave us our packs, told us of a place to set up camp, and said, "George and I better get inside before all Hell breaks loose from our wives."
They chuckled as they headed off.
We woke up early, cooked breakfast, and headed into town. Children were running around with helium balloons and were blowing off firecrackers in the street. The smell of fresh pastries caught our hearts. It was coming from the Fire-House. A bake sale! We headed inside. An older lady, plump but sweet, noticed our delighted but unsure faces.
"You’re new in this town. My name is Martha Bentley. Please call me Martha. I head the Women’s Club bake sale. You two are too skinny. You look half starved! Try some of our fresh fry bread with some home made blue berry jam."
How could we refuse such an offer. We introduced ourselves and bought a second helping, the first disappearing quickly. We chatted a while then headed to see the logging contests.
Mark and I talked to many people, all of them cheery, alive. One fellow, Jeff, a lanky but agile person, paid particular interest in us. We told him of our travels and then asked him about himself.
He had been logging for the past eight years. Worked on the water to keep the logs from stacking up. He was entered in the Log Rolling contest, a game of balance and wit. We watched and waited as he pulled on his spiked logging boots in preparation for the contest.
We watched the Log Rolling contest with interest. Many people tried. Some drunk, others unskilled. The log would be fiercely rolled and stopped abruptly by the opponents, throwing each other off balance. One by one, each contestant slipped, fell, or was tossed from the log, splashing out of control into the harbor’s ice cold water. A roar of laughter and cheers proceeded the fall every time. Jeff controlled his opponents without so much as a wet boot. Jeff was announced the champion, second year in a row.
The excitement moved to the log chopping contests. They were a bit slow but the free flowing beer kept the spirits high. Viewing the harbor from this site, I saw the greased pole climb beginning. The pole was positioned in a steep slant over the Harbor’s water with a $100 bill in a bag attached at the top. Everyone who attempted to the top slipped into the cold water below. Finally, one determined young lad had struggled to the top after slipping back a few times, grabbed the bag, and slipped off stripping the bag from the nail as he too plunged in.
As the contests were ending, everyone shifted their attention. The adults, laughing in their alcohol, the children as wiry as ever, all gathered at the school grounds, the Hoe Down ready to begin. Hands clapping, feet stomping, Bluegrass music filled the air. The rhythm made everyone wild.
Night was nearing. The band played one last song, finishing with everyone exhausted. They rested and talked. One by one the crowd diminished, moving to the next event, the band packed up their gear, the school grounds were vacant. Only darkness and stars remained.
Across the way on the jetty, new action was taking place. Mark and I headed over. People covered the rocks as they looked out over the Inside Passage. The water was calm, the night very tranquil. I asked a young lady why everyone was here. She smiled, told me to have another beer and I would see. We continued talking. Barbara was her name. She wore a lavender shirt that accented her soft brown eyes. My attention was quickly distracted as the whole sky lit up. Pinks… blues… silvers... orange and reds. Small and large, of different shapes. The 4th of July celebration! The night was quiet except for the ooh’s and ah’s after each explosion. The hour long show ended, chatter about it arose, then it roared, eventually thundering as everyone rushed across town.
The young ones were put to bed while the celebration continued in Chilkoot Charlies. The saloon was rustic, a band playing inside. All seats were taken… hardly a place to stand. The Country music was loud, everyone’s voices in competition; they all had beer and drinks. I decided to dance.
The dance floor was small, the amount of people large. Barely enough room to bob your shoulders back and forth to the music. One drunk young man thought he would solve this situation. He pushed aside another – Ah! Enough room to dance! The guy he pushed immediately thought of an idea too. One… Two… Three fists in the drunk guy’s face and he was out. No one blinked… just dragged him from the dance floor. One less person on the dance floor, the dancing continued.
It was late now, about 12:00 AM. Mark and I, now filled with Alaska-Yukon brew, staggered out of the saloon into the quiet streets. We laughed and talked, barely keeping balance. We noticed two guys carrying backpacks down the road.
Beer cans in hand, we staggered toward them...
"You two fellows just get in?"